Normally I’m only in Paris for a couple of days and a sense of urgency keeps me underground on the Metro. But as this visit is longer I can afford time walking. I’m surprised to find that Place de la Madeleine, Place Vendôme and Place Concorde are just minutes apart on foot. Often when in Paris I find myself before Rodin’s Gates of Hell. I don’t care for Rodin’s smooth, marble sculptures but his bronzes are compelling. Plastic, malleable clay cast in enduring bronze. The Gates of Hell. Everyone drowns in a sea of bronze.